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Choosing Your Correct Color
Figure out what level your highlights are by referring to a color chart. It's best to look at a color chart for the company whose hair dye products you're going to be using to be sure you pick the right color. Hold your highlighted hair up to the picture, seeing which color most closely resembles your hair. Most color charts go from 1-10 or 1-12, with one end of the scale being the darkest black and the opposite end being a light blonde or lightest blonde. Type the brand you'll be using and then "hair color chart" into an online search engine to find the correct chart. Referring to a color chart for your specific brand of hair products is important because all hair product companies have a slightly different color scale. If your highlights are too light, they're most likely in the 10 range.
Choose the level you'd like your highlights to be. Look at the color chart and pick the level you'd like your highlights to resemble. This should be about 2 or 3 shades darker, at most. Make note of what level it is so that you don't forget when you go to pick out your toner. For example, if your highlights are currently a level 10, you might want them to be a level 7 or 8.
Visit a beauty supply store to pick out the correct color toner. It's best to do this in person in case you need help from an employee. Choose a toner at the level you'd like your hair to look, making sure to purchase the same brand whose color chart you referred to. Demi permanent toners are popular as they only deposit color on top of the hair as opposed to seeping in to the hair follicle. The toner will help neutralize the intense color of your hair so it isn't so light.
Purchase a 10 volume developer to mix with your toner. The developer will combine with the toner to deposit the color on your hair. You'll be able to purchase developer at the beauty store along with your toner. Try to stick with the same brand for your developer as well. Lorri Goddard-Clark Lorri Goddard-Clark, Hair Colorist If your highlights turned out way lighter than you wanted, don't freak out. You can tone them down at home by using a semi-permanent color that's one or two shades darker than how you want the highlights to end up. Carefully apply it just to the highlights to avoid making the rest of your hair dark. It's like adding a pinch of salt to a dish to balance the flavors — a small change can create the ideal blend and bring that depth back to your hair.
Toning Your Hair
Mix the developer and toner together using the correct ratio. There will be instructions that come with your specific hair toner telling you how much developer to use, so refer to these for the specific ratio. Use a hair dye application brush to mix the developer and toner together in a small or medium size bowl. Usually, you mix 2 parts developer with 1 part toner. The toner and developer should create a relatively thick consistency that's gel-like.
Brush the mixture onto sections of your hair using the brush. You can apply the toner to only the highlighted sections, or you can choose to put it on your entire head. Use the application brush to spread the toner over strands of your hair, starting at the roots and working your way down. Choose how you'd like to section off your hair if desired, using a clip to separate hair you've already dyed. Don't worry if you get toner on darker sections of your hair, as it won't really affect it.
Use a comb to comb through all of your hair. This is a great way to spread the toner throughout your hair more evenly. Comb through each section of your hair, starting at the roots and going down to spread the toner down each strand. Rinse the comb after you're finished to make sure there's no toner or developer left on it.
Leave it in for 20-30 minutes, depending on your toner. The instructions that come with your toner will have a recommended time that you should wait before rinsing out your hair. Watch your hair as it develops, and once you notice it's reached the correct level, wait 2-5 more minutes before calling it done. Waiting the extra time will account for any toner that's rinsed off once you put your hair under the water. Set a timer so you don't forget how long the toner has been in your hair. Avoid leaving the toner in your hair for more than 30 minutes.
Rinse your hair out using cold water. Step into the shower and thoroughly rinse out your hair, massaging your scalp to get rid of the toner and developer. Once it's all rinsed out, you're ready to enjoy your new hair. Be aware that shampooing your hair right after you rinse out the developer and toner may lighten the effects.
Correcting Light or Brassy Highlights
Spray a colored dry shampoo over your hair for a quick fix. If your highlights are too light against your regular hair color, look for a colored dry shampoo that helps deposit color to even out the overall tone. Spray the dry shampoo all over your hair, using your fingers to rub it onto your roots. Brush through your hair after you've sprayed to make sure it's evenly distributed. Dry shampoo that's colored comes in shades for blondes and brunettes. Look for tinted dry shampoos at your local beauty or big box store, as well as online. Shake the shampoo thoroughly before spraying it on your hair.
Wash your brassy-colored hair with a clarifying shampoo once a week. Not only are clarifying shampoos great for getting rid of dirt and oil in your hair, but they're also useful in helping to fade highlights that aren't the right color. Only use the clarifying shampoo once a week at most, as it can be a little rough on your hair when used too often. If you have very dry hair, use caution when using a clarifying shampoo because it strips your hair of moisture and natural oils. Visit your local beauty store to find a clarifying shampoo.
Use dish soap to fade your brassy highlights. This works especially well if you have light brassy highlights. The ingredients in dish soap will help to remove the excess color much faster than a normal shampoo rinse. Massage the dish soap into your hair thoroughly before rinsing it out with cool water. Avoid washing your hair with dish soap regularly to avoid excess damage, as the ingredients are stronger than normal shampoo.
Apply purple shampoo to your hair to correct the brassy tone. Purple shampoos are great for dealing with brassy highlights, whether they're a light red, orange, or yellow. When you use the purple shampoo, your hair will absorb some of the purple color which helps counteract the brassy tones. Use purple shampoo once a week, leaving it in for five minutes before rinsing it out. Purple shampoo can dry your hair out if you use it too often.
Take precautions to avoid too-light highlights in the future. This includes preventative action like asking for balayage instead of highlights, meaning your hair is colored by hand. If you do choose to highlight, try doing it in smaller strips. Always try to bleach your hair for a shorter time than you think is necessary—you can always make it lighter, but you can't un-bleach it. If your highlights are too light due to your salon experience, let your hairdresser know so that the same thing doesn't happen again. For example, if you highlighted your hair in 0.5 cm (0.20 in) strips, try doing 0.25 cm (0.098 in) strips instead.
Visit a salon if you're still not happy with your highlights. If you've tried a bunch of different methods and you still think your highlights look too light, it's time to book an appointment with your hairdresser. They'll be able to give you an expert opinion and hopefully fix your hair so that it's exactly as you'd like it to look. Book your appointment with someone who has experience with color correcting or fixing highlights that are too light.
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