Srinagar: When a separatist revolt erupted in Kashmir nearly 17 years ago, former national soccer captain Abdul Majid Kakroo quit the game to run a small business.
Soccer was the last thing on his mind as a bloody Islamist revolt against New Delhi's rule raged in the scenic Himalayan region, the violence having claimed over 45,000 people since 1989.
However, the playing fields of Kashmir are abuzz again as youngsters take advantage of easing tension following a peace process between India and Pakistan.
Kakroo, now 47, is prominent among them, coaching hundreds of youngsters on a sprawling field ringed by lush Chinar trees.
"Unlike in the past, the boys are quite enthusiastic," he said. A huge polo ground in the heart of Srinagar, the restive summer capital of Jammu and Kashmir, is also full of people from all age-groups playing the game.
"I love football, thank God sports is back in Kashmir," said Atif Hameed, a 20-year-old player.
Risking Life
Years of unrest has caused misery in Kashmir, leaving nothing untouched. Sports was a big casualty as it was considered a big risk to venture out early in the morning or stay out in the evening.
Several grounds were taken over by security forces to set up their camps and sports clubs quickly became defunct.
Many of the clubs are up and running again, with as many as 200 of them registered again with the state soccer body.
In another prominent Srinagar stadium, hundreds of boys in whites play India's favourite game of cricket, unmindful of gun-toting security men watching from a distance.
"The gun has given way to bats and grenades to balls," said Usman Majid, a local lawmaker. "I'm sure this is the beginning of a new peaceful era in Kashmir."
Kashmir was once a top Asian tourist destination, popular among skiers, trekkers, anglers and river rafters.
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It also has two of the world's most beautiful golf courses. The Srinagar course overlooks the Dal Lake and with a picturesque backdrop in the rising Zabarwan hills, a venue which is now part of the national circuit.
Hundreds of Kashmiri skiers also flock to the snow slopes of nearby Gulmarg, where the other attraction is what is said to be the world's highest green golf course, set at an altitude of 2,650 metres.
Authorities are confident an $8 million cable car project set up in Gulmarg would lure skiers from around the world.
"The resort is now alive again," said Gul Mustafa, a ski instructor. "In the next couple of years, Gulmarg will be one of the world's famous ski resorts."
Kashmiri Willows
Kashmir also exports thousands of its famous willow bats every year, an important small industry in the region.
They are rated only below the English willow, which is favoured by international cricketers.
Many feel the violence has only eased. Militants have launched deadly grenade attacks in the last two months, killing tourists who are returning to one of the world's most scenic places.
India's soccer federation appear set to move the September national championship out of Srinagar over security concerns.
Tension spilled on to the cricket field as early as 1983, when a One-Dayer in Srinagar between India and West Indies was marred by spectators waving Pakistani flags who shouted anti-India slogans.
Kashmiri youth, however, are beginning to find their own role models. Young fast bowler Abid Nabi is on the fringes of national selection while midfielder Mehrajuddin Wadoo is a member of the Indian football squad.
Sports officials hope conditions keep improving. "In the middle of daily grenade explosions and gunfire, playing an outdoor sport is still challenging for many," said Zamir Ahmad Thakur, president of the state soccer body.
"People are used to violence and now they have learned to live with it."
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