How to Level Your Yard for a Pool

• Place plastic sheets over the pool area to kill your grass. Then, use a sod cutter or grub hoe to dig and roll up the sod.
• Lay a level on the ground to identify high and low spots. Then, dig and level the high spots instead of filling in low areas.
• Rake the ground to remove rocks and branches and use a rolling tamper to compact the soil. Then, add a layer of sand on top of the ground.

Leveling out a Cleared Spot

Check for levelness to identify high spots. The easiest way to check for levelness without special equipment is to look for them. Do a visual inspection to check for any spots that are higher or lower than the rest. After taking care of these areas, lay a wood plank across your work area. Zip tie a 6 ft (1.8 m) carpenter’s level on top of the plank, and move the plank throughout the work area to test multiple spots. Position the plank and level from the center of the work area to its edge, like a clock's hand. Check for levelness, then rotate the plank 2 to 3 feet (0.61 to 0.91 m), like a clock hand moving from 2 o'clock to 4 o'clock. Proceed shifting the plank and checking levelness every 2 to 3 feet.

Mark high patches with stakes. You might find that a wide patch of the work area is more or less level, but one edge of it slopes significantly. Place stakes or sticks at areas that slope or are off-grade. You’ll need to dig away these area in order to create level ground for the pool.

Dig away soil instead of building up low patches. Always dig away slopes and high spots to make them level with lower areas, even if it takes more work. If you fill in a patch with dirt or sand, the weight of the pool and water will compress it and cause problems in the future.

Use a spade or shovel to dig out high ground. Once you’ve identified your high spots, start shoveling away soil. Dump the soil in a wheelbarrow, then dispose of it, compost it, or use it for gardening projects, such as for potted plants or to adjust the grade elsewhere in your yard.

Rent a skid-steer loader for tougher jobs. Leveling a 5 or 10 degree slope and removing 4 to 5 inches (10 to 13 cm) of soil by hand is doable. However, if you have to remove 1 foot (30 cm) or more of soil across a wide area, you might need to rent heavy equipment. Skid-steer loaders usually require some training, so consult your rental equipment manager about meeting operation requirements. If you’re not confident about operating a skid-steer loader, consider hiring a professional to regrade the area. Look online to find a landscape architect or licensed contractor with grading experience.

Check for levelness periodically to gauge your progress. Every now and then, lay the wood plank and carpenter’s level onto your work surface. Continue digging and tracking your progress until you’ve leveled the entire work area.

Finishing off the Leveled Ground

Rake the area to remove rocks, branches, and other debris. Rake the area thoroughly after you’ve finished leveling. Sharp debris could puncture your pool’s lining.

Tamp the soil. The soil needs to be firm in order to support the pool. After raking it clean, water the soil with a garden hose, then run a rolling tamper throughout the work area to compact the soil. To compact the soil more effectively, run a soaker hose or sprinkler at low pressure for about an hour before you roll or tamp the area. You can rent a lawn roller at your local home improvement store. Typically, you can fill the drum with water to control its weight. Fill it up, then push it over the leveled ground to compact the soil.

Spread and tamp a layer of sand over the area. Many pool manufacturers call for a layer of sand, but check your owner’s manual to stay on the safe side. Lay out a layer of sand 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5.1 cm) deep across the work area, then roll over it with the tamper. If there are any areas that you need to level, use crushed limestone instead of sand. Order masonry sand from a home improvement store or pool retailer to ensure the grains are evenly sized and debris-free. The amount you'll need depends on the size of your pool. If your pool is 10 feet (3.0 m) in diameter, you'll need about a ton of sand, which can cost between $25 and $40 (US). Double check the sand for rocks, large grains, and other debris when you spread it.

Treat the area with fungicide and herbicide. Since the area around the pool will constantly get wet, apply a fungicide before installing the pool. In addition, applying an herbicide will ensure that no plants will sprout and damage your pool liner. Application rates vary by chemical, so check how much area a product covers by volume. The amount you'll need also depends on your pool's area but, at most, you'd probably need 1 gallon (3.8 L) each of ready to use fungicide and herbicide. Make sure you use petroleum-free products. Ready to use products that don't require dilution are easier to use than concentrates that need to be mixed with water. Wait to install the pool until 2 weeks after applying fungicide or other chemicals. You can also place a tarp over the area to help protect the chemicals from moisture and sun while you work.

Clearing Sod Before Leveling

Place plastic sheets over the area 2 weeks in advance to kill grass. Covering the grass with plastic sheets or tarps for a couple of weeks will kill the grass in the area. This will make it much easier to remove the sod. Place plastic sheets over the area where you will be installing the pool and weigh them down on the edges with heavy objects, such as rocks, bricks, or cinder blocks.

Remove sod after rain or a thorough watering. If the site isn't already clear, you'll have to remove the grass before leveling the ground. The day after heavy rain is a great time to cut sod. If no rain is in the forecast, water the work area well in the days before you remove the grass. Dry sod is harder to remove. While you don’t want to cut dry sod, don’t use a power sod cutter if the soil is soaked.

Rent a sod cutter to make the job easier. While you can remove sod manually, a sod cutter is your best option for larger areas of turf. You can rent a power sod cutter at your local home improvement store. Before you use a sod cutter, make sure the area is clear of sprinklers, hoses, toys, and other potential hazards. Cable wires, landscape lighting wires, and sprinkler pipes may also be just below the sod, so watch for these. Read your user manual and consult your store’s equipment manager for your specific machine’s operating instructions.

Use a grub hoe if you don’t want to rent equipment. If you don’t want to deal with power equipment, you can just put in a little elbow grease. Start by scoring the sod with a spade to divide it into sections, then use your hoe and shovel to dig out each section. Remove at least 2.5 inches (6.4 cm) of the work area's surface. Recruit some friends or family to help make the job go faster. If necessary, you can bribe them with pool time!

Roll up and dispose of your sod. A power cutter removes sod in sections that you can roll up and transfer to a wheelbarrow or lawn bags. Removing sod manually is messier, and you'll need to shovel the sod into your receptacle. When you're finished, you can leave lawn bags on the curb for pickup or add the sod (or a portion of it) to your compost heap. If you used a power cutter and your rolls of sod are in good shape, you could lay it down on a bare patch elsewhere in your yard. Water the bare patch well, fertilize it, and add compost if the soil needs conditioning. Then lay down the sod, and water it daily for 1 to 2 weeks.

Choosing a Good Site Beforehand

Check your local building codes. Choose the flattest spot possible, but make sure you comply with local codes. Check if your pool needs to be a minimum distance from property lines, septic tanks, and roads. Contact your local recorder's or assessor's office if you need to find your property lines. Run an online search or look for applicable codes on your city's, state's, or province’s government website. If you have a homeowner’s association, it’s also wise to check its bylaws. Make sure your pool is not close to an easement or setback where workers might need to access power or other utility lines. Check to see if your pool might be in a conservation area if your property borders a forest. If you'll need to have excavation equipment come in, make sure you choose a spot that's accessible to the machinery, as well.

Avoid underground utility lines and overhead power cables. If you’re not sure where your gas lines and other underground cables are, call your utility company. In addition, make sure your spot isn’t under power cables.

Stay away from trees and stumps. If your pool is under a tree, more leaves and bugs will fall into it. Aside from being unsightly, debris could affect the pool’s chemistry and make it harder to maintain. Further, trees' root systems could get in the way of leveling the site, and even if the tree is a stump it will be difficult to remove. Setting your pool beyond a tree's farthest branches should be a far enough distance if the tree is established. For younger trees, you can calculate the size of the root system to be on the safe side. Younger trees have thirstier roots, which could extend up to 38 times the trunk diameter. If a young tree's trunk is 6 inches (15 cm) across, its roots could extend over 19 feet (5.8 m). Most older trees' root systems only extend about as far as its canopy.

Consider the drainage in the area. It is important to make sure that the area where you want to put the pool has good drainage, or you could end up with a swamp in your backyard. Pay attention to how well the water drains after a heavy rain. If possible, avoid areas that stay waterlogged for long periods, or you can divert the water before putting in the pool.

Mark off an area with a diameter 2 feet (61 cm) larger than your pool. Once you’ve chosen a suitable spot, place a stake in the ground at its center. Divide your pool’s diameter by 2 to find its radius, then add 1 foot (30 cm) to the radius. Cut a string to that length, tie it to the stake, and use it to trace the circumference of your work area. Mark the area with stakes or chalk. If your pool is shaped like an oval, use a measuring tape to trace its dimensions onto your work area. Remember to make your perimeter 1 foot (30 cm) longer than your pool on all sides.