How to Make a Basketball Court

Pouring the Slab

Stake off a level area that’s 94 ft × 50 ft (29 m × 15 m) for your court. If you want a regulation-sized court like the NBA and NCAA, find a flat area that has enough space for the full court. Measure the area and place stakes where you want the corners. Tie string between the stakes to mark off the entire perimeter of your court. Make sure you have about 2–3 feet (61–91 cm) of space around the outside of the court so you have room to install your hoops and space around the sidelines. You may also try doing a high school-sized court that’s 84 by 50 feet (26 m × 15 m) instead. If you don’t have space for a full court, try making a half court that’s 47 ft × 50 ft (14 m × 15 m) instead. If the ground isn’t level, you’ll have to level it it yourself.

Dig the site to a depth of 8 in (20 cm). Start digging in the center of the court and work your way toward the edges. If you want to dig the area out by hand, use a shovel and wheelbarrow to transport the dirt. Otherwise, rent an excavator or hire a contractor to dig for you. Check with local utility companies before you start digging to make sure there aren’t any underground lines that are in the way. If you live in the United States, you can call 811 to have utility companies mark the locations of lines on your property. Keep the bottom of the hole flat and level so the court doesn’t slant. If you don’t want to install a permanent basketball court, you can get reusable tiles online that you can lay on a level surface to simulate a basketball court.

Add a 4 in (10 cm) layer of compacted gravel. You will need about 80 short tons (73 t) of gravel for the entire court. Pour the gravel into the hole and use a rake to spread it evenly. Start in one corner of the hole and work toward the opposite side. As you add more gravel, use a hand tamper to compress the gravel to a height of 4 inches (10 cm) so your slab has a sturdy base. Gravel helps level out the ground more and allows water to drain underneath your slab so it’s less likely to get damaged.

Frame the site with 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) boards. Get enough 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) boards to completely surround the perimeter of the hole. You may need to cut a few of them down with a saw to fit. Place the boards along the edges of the hole so their tops are flush with the ground. Nail all of the boards together to create a box-shaped frame. For a regulation-sized court, you will need boards with a total combined length of 288 feet (88 m). Check that the top of the frame is level so the concrete fills it evenly and doesn’t overflow over the tops.

Make a grid of steel rebar 2 in (5.1 cm) above the gravel. Rebar are metal supports that reinforce the concrete to help prevent cracks or damage. You can buy rebar that’s already assembled in a grid pattern or you can get individual lengths. Place the first stretch of rebar 2 feet (24 in) in from one of the corners so it’s parallel to the short side of the court. Extend the rebar all the way to the other long side. Continue placing more rebar along the long side every 2 feet (61 cm). Then, start running rebar from one short side to the other so it forms a grid pattern. Put metal supports, or chairs, underneath the intersections in the grid to lift the rebar off of the gravel. You can get rebar at construction supply stores.

Hire a concrete company to pour a 4 in (10 cm) slab in the frame. You will need approximately 208,000 pounds (94,000 kg) of 3,500 PSI concrete, so contact a local company that can mix and handle that amount. The company will start pouring the concrete in one corner of your court and work your way along the side. Keep the surface of the concrete even with the tops of your frame to ensure your slab stays level. Continue spreading the concrete with a hoe until it fills your court. If you don’t want to use concrete, you can also use asphalt, but it will require more maintenance and repair if you live in a climate with freezing temperatures.

Smooth the concrete while it’s wet with a float tool. A float tool has a smooth pad and a long handle so you can reach across wet concrete without stepping on it. Set the float tool down on top of your frame starting in one corner and slowly pull the tool across the surface of the concrete. The tool will collect any raised areas and smooth them out to a flat, level surface. Continue working across the entire length of your slab. Ask a partner to smooth out the concrete while you continue pouring another section of the court. Otherwise, it may start hardening while you’re still adding more concrete.

Let the concrete dry for 1–2 days. Avoid walking on the concrete while it dries since you could leave footprints and ruin the appearance of your court. After the second day, you should be able to walk on the concrete without leaving any marks on the surface. Try lightly stepping on a corner of the slab to make sure it doesn’t deform before putting your full weight on it. Drying times may be longer if you live in a humid climate.

Saw a 10 ft × 10 ft (3.0 m × 3.0 m) grid into the concrete to prevent cracking. Rent a concrete saw from an equipment rental or hardware store so you can cut into your slab. Mark off every 10 feet (3.0 m) along each side of the court so you know where to make your cuts. Put on safety glasses and a dust mask while you’re working. Set the saw depth to 1 inch (2.5 cm) and cut straight lines across your court along your marks. Work slowly so you don’t damage the saw. When you’re finished, your court will have 10 ft × 10 ft (3.0 m × 3.0 m) sections. Joints help prevent cracks from forming on the concrete’s surface as it expands and contracts with the weather. Avoid adding joints while the concrete is still wet since they’re usually wider and a basketball could bounce off them at an angle. Consider hiring a professional to saw joints in your concrete so you don’t damage any of your tools or injure yourself.

Installing the Hoops

Choose basketball hoops that are 10 ft (3.0 m) tall. Look for in-ground basketball hoops that you can permanently install for the most durable options. Make sure you buy 2 of the same hoops so each side of the court has one. Check online or at local home improvement stores to find hoops the hoops you want to use. Choose adjustable hoops if you want to make them shorter or taller. That way, it’s easier for younger kids to shoot the ball.

Set your hoops centered on the short sides so they overhang by 4 ft (1.2 m). Measure in 25 feet (760 cm) along the short sides of the court and make marks on the ground for your hoops. Position the hoops as close to the short sides of your court as possible without touching the court. Check the overhang measurement in the manuals for the hoops so you know how far they extend onto the court. The overhang will vary depending on the hoops you buy.

Dig holes that are 3 ft (0.91 m) deep and 16 in (41 cm) wide. Start digging a square or circular hole where you staked the ground for each hoop. Make sure the edge of the hole doesn’t butt up against your court. Keep digging until you reach a depth of 3 feet (0.91 m). Read the manuals for the basketball hoops you bought since they may require a different depth or width for your hole.

Fill the holes with 4 in (10 cm) of gravel so there’s a sturdy base. Scoop gravel into your hole and press it down with a hand tamper to create a flat, level surface. Continue adding more gravel until you create a layer that’s 4 inches (10 cm) deep so there’s space for water to drain out. If you don’t use gravel, the concrete could shrink and swell, causing it to crack.

Frame the tops of the holes with 2 in × 4 in (5.1 cm × 10.2 cm) boards. Cut your boards so they’re the same dimensions as your hole and nail them together into a box-shaped frame. Position the frame so it’s level with the top of the hole so the concrete doesn’t spill out and have a messy appearance. If the frame doesn’t sit level with the top of the hole, dig 2 inches (5.1 cm) out from each side to a depth of 4 inches (10 cm). That way, the inside of the frame still lines up with the hole.

Set the basketball hoops inside of the holes so they’re vertical. Ask a few helpers to lift up the hoop with you and slowly lower it into the hole. Position the hoop in the middle of the hole and hold it straight so it doesn’t tip over. Check the distance of the overhang again and shift the hoop forward or backward if you need to. Some basketball hoops have anchor systems that you install in the ground before putting in the entire pole. Always follow the directions for the specific hoops you bought.

Fill the holes in with concrete. Have someone hold the hoop in place while you pour the concrete into the hole. Keep pouring the concrete into the hole until the surface is level with the top edges of your frame. Smooth the surface of the concrete with a scrap board or float tool so the concrete stays level. Once you pour the concrete, the hoop should stay in position. If you’re worried about it tipping or falling, tie the hoop to a sturdy support, such as a tree or wall.

Let the concrete cure for 3 days. Avoid stepping on or touching the concrete around your hoops so they have time to dry and harden completely. Don’t try to play with the hoops just yet since they could still shift while the concrete is wet. Once the concrete dries after 3 days, you’re ready to start using the hoops.

Painting the Court

Mark 16 ft × 19 ft (4.9 m × 5.8 m) boxes in front of each hoop. Find where the hoop intersects the side of the court and use it as your midpoint. Measure 8 feet (2.4 m) out from your midpoint along the side of the court and make marks with a pencil. From those marks, measure 19 feet (5.8 m) onto the court perpendicular to the side to make the sides of the box. Connect the ends of the lines to make your free throw lines. Draw another box with the same dimensions in front of your other hoop. These boxes are known as the free throw lanes or “keys.” The measurements are for the outside edges of your lines.

Place the 3-point lines 23 ⁄4 ft (7.2 m) around the hoops. Measure in 3 feet (0.91 m) along the short sides of the court from each corner and make a mark for the start of the 3-point line. Draw lines onto the court from your marks that are 14 feet (4.3 m) long and parallel to the long sides. Extend a tape measure to a length of 23 ⁄4 ft (7.2 m) and have someone hold the end directly underneath the hoop. Place the other end of the tape measure at the end of one of your lines and hold a pencil against it. Slowly swing the tape measure across the court so you draw a semi-circular 3-point line on the ground. Pick up your pencil when you reach the line on the opposite side of the court. The 3-point line should extend about 28 feet (8.5 m) from the side of the court at the furthest point.

Draw the center line through the middle of the court. Measure 47 feet (14 m) in from one of the short sides of the court and make a mark for the center line. Since the center line is 2 inches (5.1 cm) thick, measure 1 inch (2.5 cm) out from the mark on each side of the court. Draw lines at your new marks that extend to the long edges of the court. These lines are the most important for your basketball game, but there are many more you can add to match a regulation court. You can find all of the line measurements here: https://ak-static.cms.nba.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/4/2019/02/NBA-Court-Dimensions-.png.

Make stencils for the lines on your court using painters' tape. Pull the painters' tape along the length of the lines you drew on your court and press them down firmly. Position another piece of tape 2 inches (5.1 cm) in toward the center of the court so it’s parallel to the first piece. That way, you’ll have clean and uniform lines that are all 2 inches (5.1 cm) thick. You may be able to print off or order premade stencils or buy prepainted tiles that have the court markings on them so you don’t have to measure or draw them yourself.

Paint the lines with a roller using exterior concrete paint. You can use any color for your lines as long as it’s easily visible on the court. Make sure the paint you choose is meant for concrete and exterior use, or else it may wear away. Load a 2 in (5.1 cm) foam roller that has a long handle with your paint and apply it between your tape lines. Go over the lines multiple times until they have a clear, even coat of paint, but be careful not to go over the outside edges of the tape. Continue painting all of the lines on your court. You can get exterior concrete paint from your local hardware store. If you don’t have a roller, you can use a paintbrush, but it will take you more time.

Peel the tape off of the court once the paint dries. Leave the paint to dry for at least 1 day so it has time to set. After that, grab the loose ends of your tape and slowly peel the pieces up from the court to reveal the lines. As soon as you take off all of the tape, you’re ready to play on your court! If the lines have messy edges, simply touch them up with a paintbrush and some leftover paint.