How to Maintain a Maple Tree

Planting the Maple Tree

Plant the maple in an appropriate place. They often lift up paving stones and damage driveways. Despite being relatively shallow-rooted, a maple's root system is complex and far reaching . Plant them away from houses, patios and fences. For most maple species, a place where they will be exposed to at least four hours of sunshine daily is ideal. Note that specific species of maple tree— such as the Japanese maple —grow best in dappled sunlight which helps to prevent leaf scorch, a discolouration and wilting of leaves caused by high temperatures, dry winds or low soil moisture. Red-leaved maple species are better adapted to growing in strong sunlight. Silver maples should be planted at least 30 feet (9.1 m) from your house.

Plant the maple tree away from frozen ground in a suitably-sized hole. Frost can prevent the roots from absorbing water, and eventually kill the tree. The hole you dig should be at least twice as wide as the root ball and as deep as the root ball is tall.

Consider the soil types favoured by maple trees. Soil should be average-to-moist and well-drained as maples do not like "wet feet". Slightly acidic soil (pH 5-7) is also ideal. If your soil is poor draining, the root ball will need to be about 2 inches (5.1 cm) above the ground level to promote good drainage. You can test your soil pH with a test kit bought from a garden centre. To do this, dig a 2–4 inches (5.1–10.2 cm) deep hole and fill it with distilled water. Insert the probe from the test kit into the muddy pool and wait 60 seconds. Then, remove it and read the pH. You can test the drainage of your soil by digging a 1 foot (0.30 m) deep hole, filling it with water and leaving for an hour. If there is still water present, you likely have poor-draining soil.

Be cautious of planting a young maple tree under power lines, as the tree may provide an obstruction in the future. The Hydro One Safety Authority recommends more than an 8 metres (26 ft) setback from either side of power lines. If you wish to be extremely cautious, consider a 10 metres (33 ft) setback. As an extra precaution, you can phone other utility services, such as water and natural gas, to ensure you adhere to their underground clearance requirements. They can also map out their underground lines.

Plant your tree in an area free of weeds which are able to cause damage to the maple's root system. It needs at least 4 feet (1.2 m) for its roots to spread out. Note that not all weeds have the same effect on maples. Plants like dandelions and daisies won't do much harm, but other weeds can cause more serious damage. Herbicides sprayed to treat weeds can also shorten the maple's lifespan or kill it. Consider alternative management strategies such as mulching.

Keep maple trees away from sun-loving plants. Maples are deciduous, with branches drooping to the ground. They block sunlight, and can cause plants underneath to languish or even to die. Ryegrass is a particularly bad option for your lawn when growing a maple tree. It competes fiercely with the maple for water and will eventually die due to lack of sunlight, water and nutrients. This seems unexpected, as it is a strong competitor against other grasses. Shade-tolerant will most likely survive underneath the maple. Consider adding hostas or spotted deadnettle, species which can thrive underneath a dense tree canopy. Red maples can grow roots as long as 80 feet (24 m), significantly impairing growth of other plants. Consider this if you choose to grow red maples.

Plant the tree in soil with a balance of nitrogen, potassium, and phosphorus. These macronutrients are essential for growth, root development and stress resistance. You can achieve a good balance by using a slow-release fertiliser which releases the nutrients to the soil over a 4-6 month period. A lack of nutrients in the soil can cause stunted growth and poor leaf colouration in your maple tree. Nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium all have specific and important roles in the health of your maple tree: Nitrogen promotes healthy leaf growth which manifests in a vibrant leaf colour Phosphorus helps the roots grow Potassium helps prevent disease and improves overall tree health Another good addition to the soil is mycorrhizal fungi. The fungi 'colonise' the maple roots and facilitate nutrient and water uptake.

Water the maple tree well before planting it. The root ball needs to be slightly damp. Also, you should be able to see the top of the root ball slightly above the soil when you plant it. Once you've lowered the tree into the hole, fill any empty spaces with soil and pat the soil gently but firmly to remove air pockets. Once you have planted the tree, water it thoroughly at the base. After two growing seasons, maple trees are considered 'established' and will not require much watering except in a drought.

Apply 7.6–10 centimetres (3.0–3.9 in) of organic mulch around the base of the maple tree to keep weeds at bay and to reduce the amount of water it needs. Apply the mulch in a 'doughnut' shape, with none within 10 centimetres (3.9 in) of the tree, and extending at least 60 centimetres (24 in) from the trunk in all directions. Top up as needed within the growing season. Don't pile up mulch against the maple's trunk as this may lead to fungi growth and restrict water and oxygen uptake by the roots. Examples of organic mulch are leaf mould, compost and wood chips. Look for mulch with medium-sized chips and dye-free.

Caring for a Maple Tree

Prune the crown of the Maple Tree when you see diseased, crossed or crowded branches. This helps to ensure the health of the tree. Although maples don't require regular pruning, visibly unhealthy branches should always be removed. Do this in late spring or early summer before the growing season begins to avoid leaking sap (which can harm the tree). Pruning stimulates growth and increases the tree size. Note that pruning requirements vary from maple species to maple species. It is advisable to seek guidance specific to the species of maple if you are inexperienced in this area. Thin out the maple's topmost branches to increase light and airflow. And, only if absolutely necessary, should you remove the ends of many branches as this can cause stress to the tree. Drastic reductions in crown size should be carried out in late July. The cuts you make should be clean and above a bud or side branch. Do not leave frayed stubs, as these decay and attract pests and disease. Minor pruning can be carried out year-round, including in the growing season.

Give your recently planted maple tree about 45 litres (10 gallons) of water for every inch (2.5cm) of trunk diameter weekly. In particularly hot conditions, double the frequency of watering, but keep the total volume of water the same. Watering to a depth of 30–40 centimetres (12–16 in) is ideal for keeping roots, damp and encouraging their regrowth. Avoid saturating the soil for multiple days. Remember: maples do not like "wet feet." Water around the base (on top of roots) rather than onto the leaves. Watering needs may depend on soil type, soil depth and soil condition. It is important never to completely saturate the soil or starve it of water entirely. Either can stress or kill the maple. Remember to. water evenly around the tree to avoid the roots becoming waterlogged.

Consult specialists to remove any bugs or to look at disease symptoms on your maple tree as soon as you see any damage. Many pests and diseases can harm these trees including: Aphids Leaf spot, which causes dark spots to appear on the leaves. The leaves eventually turn yellow and fall off Powdery mildew, a fungal disease that causes white, flaky growths on the maple's new shoots and existing leaves Boxelder bugs Tar Spot, a disease leaving huge, tar-like spots on maple trees Verticillium wilt, a fungal infection blocking water-conducting vessels. This manifests as dark streaks of discolouration on the maple tree bark. Bark damage and leaf discolouration are common signs of disease. You can put up fencing around the trunk if the bark damage is caused by animals. However, it is still advisable to consult an expert– e.g. your local tree nursery.

Fertilise young maple trees annually to help add nutrients to the surrounding soil, and to reduce the shock of being transported from pot to soil. Fertilisation also promotes the establishment of a robust root system and is ideally done in early spring. This is when maples exit winter dormancy and begin to take up more nutrients. Avoid quick-release fertilisers for young maples. They prefer organic or slow-release fertilisers. You can also fertilise your maple tree in late autumn after leaf fall, but before the ground freezes to help the roots to establish and survive winter. Do not fertilise the maple before heavy rain is expected as the nutrients will be washed into storm drains, streams and rivers where it might feed algae bloom. If fertiliser is applied during drought conditions, the maple must be watered regularly to help the tree take up the nutrients. Fertilise within the outermost circumference of the tree canopy instead of just by the trunk. This helps to ensure that nutrients can be effectively absorbed. This fertilisation practice more closely follows the distribution pattern of the tree roots.

Protect young maple leaves from frost with horticultural fleece. As well as providing frost protection and insulation, a fleece acts as a physical layer of pest protection while being flexible and breathable. You can prevent your maple tree from suffering frost damage by following the weather forecast and, covering the young leaves in time to protect them.

Be careful when using herbicides to kill weeds, as maples, especially during spring when new foliage is highly vulnerable to damage from these chemicals. Damage can occur when gaseous vapours formed by spraying his alone onto leaves or even days later via root uptake. Active ingredients that can be taken up by the maple roots are often hard to spot on the herbicide ingredients list. Warm and windy days can increase the distance travelled by the herbicide and the volatility of the chemicals. To minimise risk to maples from herbicides, you can use a coarser spraying nozzle, avoid spraying on windy days or use alternative methods of weed control such as mulching. Maples can recover from occasional herbicide damage, but repeated damage may shorten the tree's lifespan. Signs of herbicide damage include: Deformed, discoloured or dead leaves Stunted growth Death of the entire tree Branches with a twisted appearance

Collect and plant maple seeds to secure the future of a new generation of maple trees. Trees as young as 22 years old can produce millions of seeds per hectare of forest and produce a bumper crop every four to seven years. The maple tree seeds can become viable between spring and early October, depending on the species. If there are seeds remaining on the tree after leaf fall it is especially easy to collect them. The wings of the seed will be yellow-brown when mature. If the trees are not on your property, make sure you have permission to collect the seeds before doing so. You can either: Use a rake to collect seeds that have already fallen Spread a tarpaulin and wait for seeds to fall naturally Spread a tarpaulin and shake the branches to make the seeds fall

Consider selling the seeds of your maple tree, if it is mature enough to produce a significant amount of them per hectare. Use trays or burlap sacks to transport the harvested seeds with no more than 40 litres (11 US gal) of seeds per sack or tray. Do not store in hot excessively moist areas. Buyers may have their own requirements for labelling the seeds or removing large debris. Make sure to adhere to these strictly. If you want to sow the seeds yourself, remove the wings and sow in a levelled and raked tray. Place them in a sheltered location over the winter months and they will germinate in spring.