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This Kolkata-based designer graduated in womenswear from Central St Martins in 2006, followed by a fashion design degree from NIFT. Kallol Datta 1955 was launched in October 2007 and since then an extreme enthusiasm and provocation is visible in his clothes. Kallol Datta talks to City Express on his journey from being a Gen-Next designer to the Lakmé Grand Finale
■ You will be presenting the coveted Lakmé Grand Finale this time? What was your initial reaction? Did you expect it?
I was surprised! There was slight disbelief as well. Designers like me get slotted at the very beginning as ‘alternative’ (for lack of a better word) and to be given this opportunity by Lakmé to present the grand finale along with Pankaj Nidhi is absolutely great.
■ Radical-barcodes, baby pacifiers, jail stripes and skulls too have been featured in your collections. What is the inspiration behind these designs?
All the print stories that I create every season are part of the narrative that the collection’s concept brings about. The Barcodes + Jailstripes + Pacifiers were all part of ‘Conception Camp’ which was a play on the ‘immaculate conception’ concept meeting gulags.
■ Who are your favourite designers? And reasons for the same?
Anand Kabra, Anand Bhushan, Arjun Saluja, Rimzim Dadu, Sailex NG. In accessories, I love Eina Ahluwalia. I really like these designers, since I wear a lot of them.
■ How would you describe your individual style?
Roomy, all enveloping silhouettes, the colour black, customised interesting pieces of silver and stone and barefeet as much as possible. Comfort is the biggest key.
■ One person or any celebrity you would love to design for?
Artist Mithu Sen
■ Your designs are fun, unconventional and unusual. How do you manage to retain such qualities in your ensembles?
I am a big believer in the fact that there is humour in the morbid. Hence be it a print motif, shape or silhouette, my clothes are big on dark humour. As for them turning out to be unconventional, that has never been the goal. I think when you create what comes naturally to you, it shows and that is all that a designer like me can hope to do for a long time.
■ What, according to you, are the must-haves in a woman’s wardrobe?
Good Innerwear, classics in Monotones, interesting accessories, prints on garments which enhance the visual appeal and a beginner’s sense of humour.
■ The profile on your blog reads- “Seeking the past for influences and looking tantalisingly towards the future”. Is that the idea behind your designs too?
It’s how I live my life. A bit of it translates into my designs as well. I am a bit of a purist when it comes to closures, shapes and details.
■ Has the Indian fashion industry evolved a lot since you started out? If so, how?
A 5 year window period is not long enough to talk of the fashion industry’s evolution. Maybe in another 10 years I might have an answer ready.
■ Describe your journey as a fashion designer.
It’s been good, since I have been doing things at my own pace. Starting with Gen Next at Lakmé Fashion Week for Spring Summer 2008 to showcasing at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, Berlin to now doing the Finale for Lakmé, I couldn’t have asked for more or plotted it any different. I think living in Kolkata for the last 5 years affords me space to segregate myself from mindless events, night outs, gossip and politics.
■ What would you be, if not a fashion designer?
As of now, I think I would probably be a journalist or would have done something with education.
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