BANGALORE: If you had ever wanted to know about Tibet, Tibetan culture and Buddhism, Dharamsala is the place to be. Tucked far away from the sweltering heat of the planes, this is a place one can visit throughout the year. Dharamsala comes up frequently in a backpacker's itinerary.Dharamsala is called Little Lhasa, because of its huge Tibetan population. It has everything which an avid traveller looks for. Scenic location, trekking trails and a culture and tradition totally different from most other places in India. This is a travel bug's dream destination. It has a vibe which is unique to itself. Many come here because of their fascination towards Buddhism and Tibetans. And most come here to catch a glimpse of His Holiness. Dharamsala is the seat of Tibetan government in exile as well as home of current Dalai Lama, since 1959. The Dharamsala I am talking is the upper Dharamsala, mainly the McLeod Ganj area.The streets are narrow and steep and it’s a bit hard to be a pedestrian here. It was mid December and the winter was slowly crawling throughout the northern India. For a light traveller from South India, who never really has had the credit of experiencing winter to his name, I got to say I was pretty comfortable with the cold. The temperature was around 1 or 2 degrees.The bus started off from ISBT, Delhi at around 7:30. Till I entered the bus I was very much in a city in India. When I entered the bus, I realised that I was the only Indian. Rest of my co-passengers were Tibetans and foreigners. As the bus ascended, the roads progressively became worse. Most of my co-passengers had become road sick thanks to the combination of sharp hair pin curves and the fabled 'Indian Roads'. The passenger sitting next to me was a Tibetan named Sonam. I noticed that it was rather easy to start a conversation with Tibetans. You could bring up His Holiness or the Tibetan struggle against the Chinese, the conversation would always be long and interesting .As the bus winded up, it was difficult to keep myself warm especially since I was on the window seat. The bus reached at about 6:30 in the morning. The main street was a mixture of Tibetan and Indian shops. There were also cafes and pizzerias. I checked into a hotel and straight away went to see the main attraction, the Namgayal monastery .It is the personal monastery of the Dalai Lama. The monastery was relocated to Dharamsala, after 1959. In the same compound they also have a museum about Tibetan history as well as their struggle against the Chinese occupation. Everything in Dharamsala revolves around the monastery. It was a real tranquiliser.Far off from the hustle and bustle of everyday life you could just sit there and get lost in your own thoughts. The atmosphere was that of a serene pristinity and calmness, which only the Himalayas could give you. I believe the Himalayas has a great effect on people and to some extent makes you re-evaluate the priorities of your life- if all the running behind money and the corporate life are really worth it.Adjacent to the monastery was the residence of, His Holiness the Dalai Lama. And his place was protected by a contingent of Tibetan body guards. The monastery is the heart of the town and is the main tourist attraction. Many a traveler comes here to get the glance of the Dalai Lama and to learn about Buddhism. Another feature of Dharamsala is the variety of eat outs it has to offer- Pizzerias, cafeterias. There are also a lot of Tibetan restaurants, which goes without saying. This variety of food itself is a sign of the mixture of various nationalities who visit here. There are also quite a few book stalls which sell books on Tibet, Buddhism and history. It was here that I found the first paperback about the first British expedition into Tibet.I went on a trek to Triund. Triund is a trekker’s paradise. I started off early in the morning with a local guide. With the sun and moisture it was a tough walk. Within a few minutes I was huffing and puffing, trying hard to keep up with the guide who seemed to be taking a stroll up the trail. The trail was a beautiful one with pine trees on either side. Sight of a snow capped mountain has always enchanted me, so trek to the snow line itself was one filled with anticipation. After a 4 hour uphill struggle we reached the top. The view from the top was spectacular. There were lot of other tourists too who had trekked. After spending a few hours there we descended. One could stay there overnight if you wished to.I was exhausted by the time I reached back and happily indulged in a couple of plates of momos. The next day I decided to try a Jewish delicacy (name of which I don’t remember). As much as I remember the dish was more or less bread, egg and a mixture of vegetables. There are a network of schools run and other cultural activities conducted by the Tibetan Government in exile, for the Tibetans in India. The main purpose of the government was apparently to keep the Tibetan traditions and identity alive. There is also a Tibetan library and archive, which is a short walk from the main town square. There are also courses on Buddhism offered here. The scenery was superb all along the way, but the path is rather tiresome since the way is full of steep slopes. There are also a lot of NGOs who work from here, mainly dealing with the Tibetan refugees and helping them to settle in India. Another not so well-known place to visit in lower Dharamsala is the war memorial for all Himachali martyrs who have laid down their lives in service of the country. It is just a short bus drive from the upper Dharamsala.One can say that “Dhasa”, as Tibetans refers to Dharamsala is a great place to be. Whatever kind of traveller you are - a planned traveller, the wandering traveller, a group traveller or a solo traveler, Dharamsala has something to offer something for everyone. Their book stores have a great collection of books. People are warm and friendly and the place also has good and affordable accommodation facilities. A good place to be if you are a regular traveller and a great place to be if you are intrigued with Buddhism and the majestic Himalayas.
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