Growing Out a Patchy Beard
Let your beard grow out for at least a month without trimming it. Letting your beard just grow freely gives patchy areas time to fill in and catch up to areas with denser or faster growth. Rivas says “You should let the beard grow for a couple of weeks on its own…and just see what it does. If you like how it grows in, maintain it by edging up areas that you don't want it to grow in to give it a uniform shape.” According to Rivas, the exact amount of time you have to wait is “really different for everybody. There are a lot of genetic limiting factors in that.” If you’re getting impatient, Rivas adds “don't get discouraged because hair grows in various stages. It's a four-week cycle for hair growth. Some hairs grow back immediately after a clean shave and you get that 5 o'clock shadow. Then, those [hairs] will grow in within a week, and then you'll notice some patchy spots. Those will fill in in about 2 weeks. And then the last phase of growth occurs about 4 weeks into the growth cycle. So if you really are interested in growing a beard, give it at least a month to see how your beard grows.”
Brush your beard daily while it’s growing to cover patchy spots. As your beard grows out, brush it at least once a day to stimulate hair growth and train the hairs to grow a certain direction. As the hairs get longer, they can fill in or cover up patchy spots nearby. Brushing also exfoliates the skin and distributes natural oils from the base of your beard hairs, leading to healthier and fuller growth.
Trim your beard once it’s long enough to look full. LoBiondo warns “Don’t get it trimmed or shaped until it grows longer than you want it.” This way, you won’t risk accidentally trimming it too short and re-exposing the thin or patchy areas. The exact length and style you choose is up to your preference and the size and location of the patchy areas you want to hide. For example, if you have cheek patches, you may want to keep your beard longer to keep those spots covered (instead of going for a close or tight beard).
Grooming Products for Fuller & Faster Beard Growth
Beard shampoo and conditioner Look for beard shampoos for beards specifically. Rivas says that while you can use shampoo for your hair on your beard, “they do have shampoos that are really catered to your beard and are designed for the skin around your face. Your hair follicles create more oil on your scalp versus the follicles on your face, so [the shampoos] are specially designed to be more sensitive to your skin.” To wash your beard, LoBiondo says to “Use the shampoo and conditioner on your beard as you would your head hair. Do not shampoo too frequently (about once per week is fine for most people).
Beard balm or pomade Beard balm works like a leave-in conditioner to make your beard softer, more moisturized, and easier to style. Rivas recommends “staying away from heavily scented items if you want to have a scent. I personally always like to recommend unscented products with a thicker base because then it'll last longer throughout the day and it's not so shiny looking. It helps to really tame the beard and keep it moisturized.” To apply, warm up a pea-sized amount of balm in your hands and work the product into your beard with your fingertips while it’s still slightly damp. Apply after washing and trimming and before styling. Rivas adds, “ if you have a fluffy beard and you put a good amount of pomade or balm in it, you can flatten it out a little bit and make it look more tamed.”
Beard oil According to Rivas, “adding beard oil gives the beard a fuller, more uniform look and it maintains the straggly hairs. So, it gives a neater appearance, and then the pomade really helps with holding it.” He adds that beard oil helps fight beard dandruff, too: “It will moisturize your skin under the beard. I've noticed some guys that don't use beard oil come into the shop for a slight trim and a line around the jaw. They do tend to have dandruff in their beard. So, beard oil does help with that.” To apply, wet your beard, lather up your hands with half or three-fourths of a dropper full of oil (use more or less depending on your beard size), and massage the oil into your beard all the way down to the skin. Comb or brush your beard to distribute it evenly.
Beard brush LoBiondo recommends brushing your beard “with a detangler brush or boar bristle brush.” Beard brushes help detangle wet hair and train your beard hair to grow in a particular direction (helpful for covering up patchy spots!). A beard brush also helps distribute oils (natural and added) from the base of the hair to the tip for healthier hair and growth. Brush your beard after showers to detangle it, or throughout the day whenever you need a touch up. For long beards, a wide-tooth beard comb is probably more helpful right out of the shower than a brush.
Diet & Lifestyle Tips for Fast, Natural Beard Growth
Eat a protein-rich diet and stay hydrated. A balanced diet with the right nutrients can help support healthy, fuller hair growth (however, your diet alone probably won’t make or break your beard). Since beard hair is mostly keratin (a protein), make sure to get sufficient protein in your diet from sources like lean meat, fish, eggs, grains, nuts, and seeds. The daily recommended amount of protein is about 0.36 grams per pound of body weight (0.8 grams per kg). For example, if you weighed 165 pounds (74.8 kg), you’d need at least 60 grams of protein per day. Drinking enough water also keeps your skin hydrated, which helps your beard grow without flaking or itching. Aim to get about 15.5 cups (3.7 liters) of fluids a day.
Get plenty of vitamins D, C, and B, zinc, and iron to support hair growth. In addition to protein, a variety of nutrients can naturally help your beard grow more fully and healthily. Vitamin D helps stimulate hair follicles, and a deficiency in vitamin D is associated with Alopecia areata (a type of hair loss caused by an autoimmune disorder). So, get more vitamin D from sources like oily fish like salmon, red meat (in moderation), liver, eggs, and cereals to help combat patchiness! Also make sure to get: Iron: Low iron is associated with hair loss, and thankfully eating more iron can reverse any hair loss caused by the deficiency. Liver, red meat, cereals, dried fruit, and nuts are all good sources of iron. Vitamin C: Vitamin C aids iron absorption and your immune system, benefitting your hair growth. Get vitamin C from foods like citrus fruits, peppers, potatoes, and broccoli. Vitamin B: B vitamins like riboflavin, niacin, biotin, folate, and vitamin B12 are essential for strong and healthy hair growth. Get more B vitamins from nuts, fresh fruit, beans, dark green vegetables, most animal products, and fortified breakfast cereals. Zinc: Low zinc may be linked to Alopecia areata, and the mineral is important for repairing DNA and maintaining normal hair growth. Zinc sources from food include oysters, meat, cereal, and dairy products. L-Carnitine-L-Tartrate: Preliminary studies show that these compounds may be linked to promoting hair growth. While carnitine can be found in foods like like milk, fish, beef, and asparagus, you’ll need a supplement to get the full compound. Speak with your doctor before taking any new supplements or if you feel you have a vitamin deficiency.
Get regular exercise to strengthen hair follicles and lower stress. Exercise improves your circulation and increases the oxygen in your blood, which stimulates your hair follicles and can lead to longer cycles of hair growth. It also lowers your overall stress, which can be a major factor in hair loss or patchiness. Additionally, exercise is just good for your overall health, and a healthier body equals a healthier beard! Any exercise is beneficial. It could include things like brisk daily walks, cardio workouts like running or biking, yoga, and/or strength training. Aim to get at least 150 minutes of moderate-intensity aerobic activity (or 75 minutes of vigorous aerobic activity) and 2 days of strength training per week.
Get plenty of sleep and reduce your stress levels. Sleep is your body’s way of healing and growing itself, so being well-rested can promote healthy hair growth in and of itself. However, not getting enough sleep is also linked to hair loss and androgenetic alopecia (male pattern baldness), so try to get a full 8 hours of sleep each night! Adequate sleep also reduces your stress levels, and high stress is linked to hair loss or patchiness. To reduce your overall stress, cut back on unhealthy habits like drinking or smoking and prioritize clean eating and exercise. Meditation, journaling, creative hobbies, time with loved ones, and laughing are all great tools to make you feel more relaxed and rested.
Cosmetic & Medical Options to Fill In Your Beard
Fill in small patches with an eyebrow pencil for a temporary fix. If you want your beard to look fuller for a special occasion or photo, buy an eyebrow pencil that matches the color of your beard hair (preferably one with a thicker tip). Use fine, feathery strokes to add color to your skin in patchy areas to “blend it in” with your beard hair. Some men incorporate a quick beard fill-in like this into their daily routine. Just know that it’s a purely cosmetic, temporary fix and won’t stimulate any new hair growth.
Try topical hair fibers to make existing hair look thicker. Topical hair fibers are made of keratin (like your real hair) and cling to existing hair on your beard, making sparse patches look more dense and full. Choose a color that matches your beard and apply to dry hair according to the instructions on your specific product. It may take some time to find the exact right shade and amount of fibers to use. Topical fibers are another temporary and cosmetic fix that won’t do much to stimulate hair growth. Topical fibers can sometimes look messy when you’re new to applying them. They also look less natural across large patches and work better for smaller coverups.
Use a dermaroller to target patchy areas. A dermaroller uses lots of very tiny needles to puncture the uppermost layer of skin (microneedling) to improve blood flow, increase collagen and keratin production, reactivate hair follicles, and promote the elasticity and health of your overall skin, all of which can help stimulate new, thicker hair growth in your beard. To use one, just roll the needly cylinder gently over patchy areas of your beard for a minute each day. If you start noticing irritation, redness, or other side effects, stop using it.
Use beard dye if your patchiness is caused by graying or discoloration. If you have patches of very light or graying beard hair but the rest of your beard is dark, dyeing your beard can make it look fuller and patch-free. Just apply according to the directions on the box and you’re in the clear! Rivas advises not to wash your beard as frequently as normal if you dye it. “You probably don't want to wash it as much because you want the beard dye to last longer, and that way you're not reapplying it so frequently and putting those chemicals on your skin as often.”
Ask your dermatologist about minoxidil or other medications. You might be tempted to slap some Rogaine (the brand name for minoxidil) on your beard, but the FDA has only approved it to treat hereditary hair loss on the scalp. When used on the face, it can sometimes cause raw, irritated skin or other side effects. Chat with your dermatologist to see if minoxidil is right for your skin and face and find out about other medications or procedures like red light therapy that may help with growing facial hair. Finasteride is another popular medication to promote hair growth.
Consider beard transplant surgery as a last result. You may have heard of hair transplant surgery before, but the demand for facial hair transplants is growing too. In this surgery, hair follicles are extracted from another area (usually the back of your scalp) and transplanted into your facial skin. However, this procedure is not exactly easy: Extracting the follicles can take 6–10 hours and may require 2 sessions, while transplanting them can take even longer (6–12 hours). Recovery lasts about 14 days, and you can’t shave or trim your new beard for at least 3 weeks. Discuss surgery with your dermatologist if you’re considering this option, as our unique health circumstances and needs can affect whether this is a good option for you or not.
Best Beard Styles for Patchy Growth
Consider your face shape when you pick a beard length or style. Before picking a specific look, think about what aspects of a beard will flatter your facial features. According to Rivas, “a person with a more rounded shape should wear their beard a little bit tighter in the area where it grows by the ears. In the cheekbone areas, trim it down with slightly more of a blend so the face doesn't look as round. If you have a round face and you have a puff of hair coming out, it's going to make your face look even rounder.” Rivas advises the opposite for someone with a slimmer or more angular face. “You might want to have it a little bit fuller in the cheek area so your face fills in a little bit more and gives you more of a fuller look.”
Try a chin strap beard to take advantage of hair growth along the jawline. If your cheeks and mustache area are thin or patchy, never fear. Just let your sideburns connect to your beard along the jawline and chin, creating a continuous “strap” of hair along the edges of your face. Use a trimmer to line up your beard and shave your cheeks for a smooth, sharp contrast. A chin strap look works with or without a mustache.
Test out a goatee or circle beard if your cheeks and jawline are patchy. To trim a goatee, grab a pair of trimmers and outline the end of your chin and around any facial hair near your lips (so your mustache extends down into your chin hair). Then, shape the lower lip hair (the “soul patch”) into an upside down triangle and square your sideburns just above the openings of your ears. Then, shave away any remaining facial hair along your jaw and cheeks. There are many different kinds of goatees like the classic goatee (hair on your chin only), a full goatee (chin hair with a mustache and soul patch), the Van Dyke (when the mustache and chin don’t connect), and more.
Go for a 5 o’clock shadow if you don’t want to worry about shaping. Stubble is another easy style that disguises patches; since the hair all over is so short, patches are hardly noticeable. This one’s extra low-maintenance: just trim your entire beard and mustache down to a length where patches aren’t super visible (maybe a #1 guard), then shave clean lines around the edges of your beard for a clean, intentional look (if desired). Having stubble all over gives the illusion that you can grow a full, thick beard (even if it starts getting patchy when you grow it out in reality).
Or, let it grow patchy and natural! Everyone’s beard grows slightly differently, and there’s nothing wrong with letting yours grow out the way it naturally wants to. For some, a slightly patchy or thinning beard adds to their overall look or vibe (like if you’re going for a carefree and scruffy appearance or want to try out the dark academia aesthetic). Basically, if you like the way it looks, you don’t have to change it.
What causes a patchy beard?
Genetics Your genes play a big role (maybe the biggest role) in how your beard grows. Male pattern baldness (androgenetic alopecia) is hereditary and is the most common cause of hair loss in men. In fact, genetics account for about 80% of all male pattern baldness (including scalp and facial hair).
Hormones Surprisingly, it isn’t necessarily a low level of testosterone that makes your beard patchy or thin (although many seem to think it is). In fact, having too much of another hormone called dihydrotestosterone (DHT)—a derivative of testosterone—can impede hair growth and even make it fall out. Testosterone and DHT work independently of each other, and an imbalance (usually by there being excessive DHT) can stunt your beard growth. The stress hormone, cortisol, can also negatively affect hair growth and density if you’re under prolonged or chronic stress.
Age Men under 25 years old may not have reached their full beard-growing potential yet, resulting in a patchy or thin look. On the other hand, men over 50 are much more likely to experience hair thinning on their scalp and face. In fact, about half of men around the world experience some hair loss by age 50, and up to 70% of men experience it as they get even older.
Stressful or unhealthy lifestyle Things like a nutritional or vitamin deficiency, a sedentary lifestyle, a lack of quality sleep, and chronic high stress levels can interfere with your body’s ability to grow facial hair to its fullest potential. Some of these habits go hand-in-hand with hormonal reasons for patchy beards (for example, stress increases cortisol levels, which can hurt hair growth).
Underlying conditions causing beard alopecia Alopecia areata is a condition that causes patchiness and hair loss in beards (beard alopecia) and can have many different causes, from pseudofolliculitis to infections to herpes to other skin conditions. It impacts your immune system and causes it to attack hair follicles, resulting in thinning patches. Work with your doctor to diagnose the cause of the alopecia to determine the best treatment regimen.
Should you worry about fixing a patchy beard?
You only need to fix a patchy beard if you don’t like how it looks. Every person has different opinions about what looks good on them or on others, so block out what others think and focus on what you really want for yourself. A lot of times, a patchy beard isn’t as noticeable to others as it is to you, and a lot of people don’t mind how it looks (or even prefer it!). If your beard is symmetrically patchy (it thins out in the same places on both sides of your face), then it could even be a cool and unique look. Think of it like a fingerprint—no one’s beard grows exactly the same as yours.
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